In a grand finale to the Milan menswear season, Zegna, the iconic sartorial brand, unveiled a collection that seamlessly blended inventive silhouettes with cutting-edge fabrics. Alessandro Sartori, the Creative Director, orchestrated a remarkable showcase that captivated fashion enthusiasts and left a lasting impact.
The chosen venue, Allianz MiCo, Europe’s largest conference center, provided a picturesque backdrop with curvilinear apartment buildings and a luxury mall. This setting perfectly complemented the avant-garde shapes of Zegna’s latest collection, curated by the visionary Alessandro Sartori.
Despite whispers of economic challenges in Italy, this collection in the vibrant corner of Milan, the country’s wealthiest city, felt like a lesson in a new fashion vocabulary, showcasing Zegna’s unwavering commitment to innovation.
The expansive show space featured an impressive saffron pile of cashmere wool, symbolizing the brand’s concept, Oasi Zegna. While Zegna has been synonymous with classic and modern suits, Sartori’s transformative vision embraced haute gamme casual luxury, responding to evolving demands.
A standout concept in this collection was the work jackets and outer shirts, characterized by patch pockets, wide sleeves, and generous proportions. Detachable collars, in rawhide or stiff felt, added a sharp finish to the jawline, allowing the jacket to transform into a gilet when removed.
Zegna’s trousers emerged as a highlight, featuring wide pants with double pin-tucked details at the front and back for impeccable shape retention. The color palette, including ice, butter, burnt orange, asphalt, and deep blues, adorned several great coats, each a masterpiece in itself.
Sartori’s emphasis on natural materials, including washed, treated, quilted, beaver, and upcycled cashmere, defined the collection’s luxurious appeal. The layering techniques, such as ribbed sweaters over light peacoats and Henleys, added depth and texture to the looks.
The show, accompanied by a custom-made soundtrack by British producer James Blake, featuring his track «Friends That Break Your Heart,» resonated with an eclectic vibe. The diverse casting, including female models and veteran male stars, showcased Zegna’s commitment to inclusivity.
The grand finale witnessed a rousing ovation, led by Zegna’s ambassador Mads Mikkelsen and supported by the brand’s newest fan, Michael Fassbender. The Germano-Irish actor exuded effortless style in a voluminous coat in the pale cement hue favored by designer Alessandro Sartori.
As Milan bids adieu, the style spotlight now shifts to Paris, but Zegna’s impact lingers, setting the stage for a new era in men’s fashion.
