Jonathan Anderson, the creative director of Loewe, has a lot on his plate, which might explain why his latest collection for the house felt like just the beginning.
Anderson has garnered acclaim for his Paris shows in recent years, but this time around, the Spring/Summer 2024 women’s collection had a sense of déjà vu. From super high-waisted pants to oversized knits, the show seemed strangely familiar.
One couldn’t help but admire the intriguing invitation – a gold metal plate featuring a bold image of a curvaceous mermaid by sculptor Lynda Benglis. Benglis also contributed several bronze and black abstract sculptures, whimsically named ‘Elephant Necklace,’ which adorned the show. She was also behind the water sculpture at the men’s show earlier.
However, the show in the Bois de Vincennes faced an unusual choice, with models parading nearly ten yards away from most of the audience. It was frustrating to spot a stunning look only to realize the model was on the other side of the street.
The show began with floor-sweeping cable knits, reminiscent of Pirosmani’s work, and then transitioned into a series of wide-legged pants that stopped halfway up the torso. These were paired with micro blouses, crisp grandfather shirts, vibrant knits, and a dazzling metallic confetti blouse.
Many outfits were accessorized with jewelry by Benglis, indicating Anderson’s fascination with her work. He claimed that the collection mirrored the phases in the artist’s life: first as «a sexual being,» then achieving «establishment recognition,» and ultimately «disappearing from the scene.»
A couple of semi-sheer, curtain-like mid-length dresses injected some excitement, as did the finely meshed tubular cocktails. Anderson’s innovation centered on altering and lowering waistlines, allowing them to cascade away from the body or pulling up leather coats on one side to attach them to matching handbags. With items like the Squeeze and Pebble Bucket bags, Loewe’s patron, Bernard Arnault, can expect ringing cash registers.
«I wanted something fresh, and I think I found a new silhouette rhythm in men’s fashion – about tightening and savoring this silhouette,» Anderson explained after the show.
«I appreciate the way Lynda explores the boundaries of good taste, using glitter and wax, and how she transitioned from being antagonistic to cerebral,» he added.
Given Anderson’s packed schedule, designing eight collections a year for Loewe and his own brand, along with curating the recent On Foot exhibition in London, it’s understandable that not every season will deliver a stellar show.
In summary, while this Loewe show might not have been a standout, it was still a captivating chapter in Jonathan Anderson’s artistic journey.