Step into the world of Gucci Ancora as Sabato De Sarno debuts his inaugural menswear collection for Gucci at Milan Men’s Fashion Week. The collection, drenched in rich burgundy tones, takes inspiration from the brand’s DNA and De Sarno’s fascination with Eighties Italy.
Against the backdrop of Fonderia Carlo Macchi, a disused ironworks in north Milan, models strutted down the runway to upbeat dance pop, setting the stage for a visually captivating display. Despite the title’s emphasis on burgundy, the collection presents a skillfully tailored and commercially astute ensemble.
In the Ancora Manifesto program note, Sabato described it as «a story of objects – shiny, tactile, and cold to the touch but warm to the heart and soul.» The collection introduces a range of desirable items, inviting collectors to enrich their lives.
The defining look features ankle-licking great coats in gray metal wool, anchored by studded brothel creepers. De Sarno’s craftsmanship shines through with gabardine, silk, and fine wool, crafting wrap-around suits and tuxedos with displaced central buttons and cleverly rouched hips. The vision for fall includes big-collar single-breasted trenches, workerist leather jackets, and bold all-monogram looks in beige or burgundy.
Eveningwear takes a shimmering turn with sequined rockstar coats and jade smocks, promising brilliance in editorial shoots. The collection boasts an array of merch and mode, from foam-soled shoes and over-the-shoulder bags to chunky gold necklaces. Yet, the magic seems elusive, as the show lacks that essential touch of the unexpected.
De Sarno’s handsomely bound book sent before Christmas celebrates 80s creatives, encapsulated in his signature burgundy. This departure from traditional glamour defines Gucci Ancora, setting it apart from the fashion landscape.
In summary, Sabato De Sarno emerges as a distinctive force, shaping Gucci’s menswear narrative with a blend of sobriety and splendor. Explore the elegance of Gucci Ancora at Milan Men’s Fashion Week.
