Blue jeans, an iconic fashion staple, are celebrated by people from all walks of life. However, this beloved denim fabric carries a hefty environmental cost. Let’s delve into the journey of your favorite jeans, exploring the environmental challenges and the path toward sustainability.
Blue jeans have humble origins in cotton fields, often spread across countries like India, China, the US, Brazil, and Pakistan, collectively contributing to 75% of global cotton production. From cotton ginning to yarn spinning and indigo dyeing, the denim production process involves numerous steps, including sandblasting and acid-washing for fashionable faded looks. Each of these stages leaves a significant environmental footprint.
For instance, according to Levi Strauss & Co., crafting a pair of their signature 501 jeans in 2015 consumed nearly 3,000 liters of water and emitted 20 kilograms of CO2e, encompassing all greenhouse gases. Pesticide and fertilizer use poses risks to both nature and human workers. The shift from natural to synthetic indigo dye has introduced toxic pollutants like formaldehyde and cyanide. In some regions, dyeing waste is carelessly dumped into waterways, affecting the color of rivers. Finishing processes raise pollution concerns, consume valuable resources, and often jeopardize worker safety.
These issues extend beyond denim production, given cotton’s widespread use in textiles. Blue jeans, however, symbolize the need for transformation toward sustainability.
Achieving traceability in denim production is the first crucial step. Brands must gain insight into their supply chain to ensure a positive impact. Achieving this is complex, with yarns often containing cotton from diverse small farms. Large clothing companies operate in isolated silos, and information gaps can lead to disconnection between designers and buying teams.
While challenges persist, tracing denim’s origins is essential. The coffee and cocoa industries offer valuable lessons in enhancing traceability. Cotton traders, traditionally bridging the gap between farmers and manufacturers, play a significant role in improving traceability and sustainability.
Innovation is underway to clean up denim’s lifecycle. Initiatives like Good Earth Cotton promote regenerative farming methods to improve soil quality and biodiversity. FiberTrace introduces luminous fibers into textiles, establishing fully traceable supply chains. Huue is developing non-toxic biosynthetic indigo from sugar, and Xeros Technology uses reusable polymer spheres to reduce water usage in finishing processes.
However, cost remains a challenge. Many brands aim to maintain cost-neutrality, making it challenging for sustainable startups to scale and reduce prices. Brands may be reluctant to raise prices beyond necessity, especially in the current economic climate with inflation impacting consumer purchasing power.
One notable example of sustainability is the Better Cotton Initiative, boasting major fashion retailers among its members. It doesn’t impose a price premium on cotton and collaborates with farmers to reduce water and chemical use, ensuring workers’ rights are respected. About 22% of global cotton production is Better Cotton, outpacing organic cotton at 1%.
While progress is evident in sustainable cotton growth, the definition of sustainable jeans remains a challenge. Brands often establish their standards based on marketing targets. Achieving truly eco-friendly jeans requires comprehensive involvement in the product life cycle, breaking down silos, and accepting additional costs.
