In a significant stride forward, Japanese company Spiber has achieved industrial-scale production of protein-based polymers derived from biomass fermentation. Spiber’s recent establishment of a factory in Thailand, equipped with the capability to produce a remarkable five million tons of these innovative polymers, marks a groundbreaking achievement. The company’s expansion plans extend to commencing polymer production in the United States.
Spiber’s cutting-edge fiber has garnered attention from outdoor apparel brand Goldwin, which is set to introduce a capsule collection utilizing this innovative material. The collection will be available at a London pop-up store starting in September, reflecting Goldwin’s commitment to sustainable materials. The brand aims to increase the proportion of fabrics sourced from protein-derived materials to 10% by 2030. This forward-thinking endeavor is a result of the eight-year research and development partnership between Spiber and Goldwin, which has yielded a range of innovative garments, including t-shirts, jackets, and sweaters. Initially, production was constrained due to fiber output limitations.
Kenji Higashi, Spiber’s European representative and head of sustainable development, compares their production process to beer brewing, employing a vat system. The company’s research involved an in-depth study of the DNA of various natural elements to identify which polymers could be generated through interaction with their specialized bacteria.
While Spiber initially aimed to create an alternative to spider silk for lightweight and durable clothing, the adaptability of their fiber surpassed expectations. The spun fibers exhibit softness comparable to cashmere and possess properties similar to wool in terms of thermal regulation and breathability. Notably, this innovative fiber presents an ethical alternative to fur and leather, eliminating the need for animal breeding.
Spiber’s Thai factory currently utilizes biomass sourced from sugar cane, but the company’s goal is to transition exclusively to working with agricultural waste, mitigating the environmental impact associated with sugar cane cultivation. For the time being, the polymers produced in Thailand are sent to Japan for spinning.
Spiber’s Thai facility serves as a stepping stone to a larger production site in Iowa, USA, situated on land owned by the ADM agricultural group, which entered into a partnership with Spiber in 2020. This expansion aims to tap into the by-products of the local maize industry, offering an abundant supply of raw materials. The precise inauguration date for this future facility is yet to be determined.
In celebration of Spiber’s successful leap into industrial-scale fiber production, Goldwin hosted a pop-up store in London from September 29th to 30th. The showcase featured items from the brand’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection incorporating Spiber’s technology, including an overcoat (€1,500), an anorak (€1,200), performance trousers (€700), and a denim jacket (€800) with 4% brewed protein-enhanced fabric.
Spiber, currently employing 300 individuals, has a history of collaborations with brands such as Pangaia, Yuima Nakazato, and The North Face, with whom they co-produced the ‘Moon Parka’ jacket in 2015. This iconic jacket was later reintroduced in an enhanced version at the end of 2019.
