Fashion Highlights: Peter Do’s Debut at Helmut Lang Disappoints, Carla Pierini Shines at Supima 2023
The house of Helmut Lang, post its eponymous founder’s departure, has endured a prolonged descent, with only occasional sparks of brilliance, like Peter Do’s recent debut.
Peter Do, known for crafting some of New York’s most exciting fashion moments in recent years, showcased his debut collection for the house, inspired by America’s automotive romance. Unfortunately, the show didn’t live up to its potential, leaving the audience as dampened as the drizzly Lower Manhattan weather outside.
The collection, though inspired, felt more like an imitation of Lang’s iconic style, lacking the artistry that once made Helmut Lang the pinnacle of fashion.
Pre-show, signs were promising, with oversized graphic texts reminiscent of artist Jenny Holzer and a text by Ocean Vuong, read aloud by the Vietnamese-American writer.
However, Do’s homage veered excessively close to mimicry, featuring Lang’s signature sharp suits, Edwardian redingotes, and denim parkas, with a hint of Lang’s minimalist tailoring. What was missing was Lang’s distinctive blend of classic tailoring, proportion, subversive edge, and innovative materials.
Since the founder’s retirement in 2005, Helmut Lang has seen creative director changes, an editor-in-residence, and financial setbacks, challenging the brand’s legacy.
Carla Pierini Triumphs at the 2023 Supima Design Competition
In contrast, Carla Pierini, a talented designer from Venezuela, emerged as the victor at the 2023 Supima Design Competition, showcasing her porcelain blue collection that paid homage to her homeland.
Pierini’s designs combined tie-dye, acid dying, fabric puckering, and couture silhouettes, impressing with her creativity and potential.
Pierini received a prestigious $10,000 prize, along with industry recognition and visibility for all the 2023 finalists, who presented their capsule collections in a prestigious midtown ballroom.
A Drexel University student, Pierini faced fierce competition from eight finalists, including Amber Kuia, Alexander Ziemba, Hee Jin Hwang, Wendy Weng, Tianze Wu, Sahara Clemons, and Mariana Espinosa.
Pierini humbly credited her friends at Drexel for her success, emphasizing the collective effort behind her remarkable collection.
The 16th edition of the Supima Design Competition challenged emerging designers to create five looks using five types of Supima fabrics, resulting in remarkable displays of creativity.
CFDA Award-winning designer Bibhu Mohapatra mentored the finalists, providing invaluable insights and guidance. The esteemed jury, led by veteran designer Jeremy Scott, recognized Carla Pierini’s exceptional talent and her heartfelt tribute to her native Venezuela.