During a bustling 24-hour period in Paris, three designers unveiled distinctive visions of female beauty and authority. These included a ballet-inspired showcase by Valentino, an Akris collection influenced by Vienna, and Elie Saab’s English-inspired creations.
Valentino: Sala Bianca and Beaux-Arts Elegance
Valentino’s Sunday show marked a triumph, the first since luxury powerhouse Kering acquired a 30% stake in the brand. The collection’s first half paid homage to the iconic Sala Bianca show in 1962, a moment that solidified Valentino Garavani’s fashion legacy.
The spring/summer 2024 collection unfolded within the Beaux Arts, featuring artist and singer FKA Twigs and dancers in flesh-colored swimsuits. It showcased stunning stucco-like dresses named Altorilievo, adorned with intricate baroque motifs. The collection impressed both technically and aesthetically, evident in the enthusiastic response from the cast.
Creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli emphasized the liberation of the female body through this collection, culminating in a standing ovation from the audience. The show also introduced the V Logo Moon bag, available in various sizes and styles.
Akris: Captivating Mittel European Inspirations
Albert Kriemler’s ability to draw inspiration from unique sources was evident in his collection, which drew from the works of Austrian printmaker Felice ‘Lizzie’ Rix-Ueno. Her fantastical designs and naive florals inspired Akris prints this season, reimagined through Kriemler’s creative lens.
The collection featured artful fabric poppy flower dresses, elegant pant suits with poppy prints, and white tent dresses adorned with Lizzie’s Easter Bonbonnière design. Graphic pajama suits and shirt dresses added to the elegance, while guipure lace suits and gathered white shirts showcased refinement.
Albert Kriemler’s knack for discovering culturally significant creators made this collection a captivating fusion of fashion and fine art.
Elie Saab: Anglo-Saxon Elegance
Elie Saab presented his spring/summer 2024 collection on a sweltering day in Paris, showcasing English lace and a summery ambiance. The show attracted significant attention, underscoring Saab’s expanding global appeal.
The collection introduced a sportier element with belted jumpsuits, polka dot suits paired with matching bra tops, and safari dresses. Trends included semi-sheer lace columns and lingerie-inspired daywear. Elie Saab’s focus seemed to shift toward Britain and America as he continued to grow his brand’s global presence.
In a busy period for the house, Saab also unveiled a collaboration with Borsalino x Elie Saab, featuring classic fedora hats adorned with a monogram bijoux on the ribbon band.
Elie Saab’s signature opulent style was evident in chiffon gowns, lemon linen embroidered dresses, and one-shoulder chiffon goddess gowns that concluded the show.
Overall, the collection reflected Saab’s commitment to creating stunning eveningwear and the brand’s burgeoning international influence.
