Paris Fashion Week came alive with excitement during the Spring/Summer 2024 women’s ready-to-wear collections. The week concluded on a high note with a stimulating final day, featuring three emerging labels—Duran Lantink, Avellano, and Ujoh. The day before, Maison Margiela, under the creative direction of John Galliano, stole the spotlight with a groundbreaking collection.
Maison Margiela: Sustainable, Inclusive, and Gender-Fluid Fashion
Maison Margiela, owned by Italian fashion group OTB, presented a collection that blended the past, present, and future of fashion. John Galliano, at the helm of this iconic avant-garde label since 2014, created a collection that emphasized sustainability, inclusivity, and gender fluidity. The collection paid homage to Margiela’s heritage while incorporating elements of Christian Dior and John Galliano himself.
Galliano’s masterful fusion of historical references, innovative design, and cinematic storytelling was evident throughout. The show took place at Maison Margiela’s Parisian headquarters, creating an otherworldly atmosphere. Models showcased outfits that challenged traditional gender norms, with unisex clothing, oversized proportions, and experimental details.
Duran Lantink’s Playful Collection
Duran Lantink, a Dutch designer, made his official Paris Fashion Week debut with a playful and imaginative collection. His designs featured whimsical elements, such as garments that appeared inflated with helium, denim jackets resembling balloons, and pool noodle-inspired accessories. Lantink’s unconventional use of materials, including flesh-colored tulle, resulted in garments with amusing twists and a quirky aesthetic.
Avellano’s Latex Extravaganza
Arthur Avellano, winner of the Pierre Bergé prize, showcased a spectacular collection centered around latex. He introduced innovative techniques like moire latex, which mimicked Astrakhan fur, and used 100% natural latex for transparent, body-hugging dresses. Avellano played with colors, incorporating golden bronze and platinum hues into his designs. The collection transitioned from Matrix-inspired styles to glamorous outfits, highlighting Avellano’s versatility.
Ujoh’s Minimalistic and Masculine Designs
Japanese designer Mitsuru Nishizaki presented a minimalistic and masculine collection for Ujoh’s Spring/Summer 2024 line. The designs featured wool and cotton suits in soft shades of sky blue and pink. Nishizaki focused on liberating the shoulders and upper body, while maintaining substance in the lower section. The collection showcased the use of laces, drawstrings, and nylon to create unique textures and silhouettes.
A Showcase of Emerging Talent
Together X Plan 8 and The Selects provided a platform for emerging designers to shine during Paris Fashion Week. The Selects, featuring ten young Korean designers, added a fresh perspective to the event. The collaborative space allowed brands to work with different agents simultaneously, providing a unique opportunity in the fashion industry.
This innovative project, backed by the Korea Creative Content Agency (KOCCA), highlighted the global diversity of fashion. From avant-garde creations to imaginative latex designs and minimalistic elegance, the showcase celebrated the creativity and innovation that Paris Fashion Week is known for.
