Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2023 witnessed an explosion of creativity on its seventh day. Designers took center stage with their innovative visions, each offering a unique perspective. Y/Project showcased unbridled creativity, Ottolinger blended sophistication with accessibility, Atlein radiated glamour, and Ann Demeulemeester embraced minimalism.
Glenn Martens, fresh from a remarkable Diesel show in Milan, continued to captivate Paris with his label, Y/Project. The Belgian designer presented a versatile and theatrical collection, pushing the boundaries of garment construction and material treatment, particularly in prints and dyes. Innovation and experimentation were the driving forces behind this collection.
Martens chose a raw 1920s concrete and brick building as the venue, perfectly complementing the experimental atmosphere. The runway opened with oversized hooded mackintoshes reminiscent of monk’s robes. Sweaters and cropped tees featured corkscrew designs, while denim skirts showcased asymmetrical slits. Crumpled cotton shirts created rosettes on the torso, and crumpled fabric mimicked paper to form sculptural dresses.
Coats and jackets appeared to split and shift, with satin fabrics taking over the upper arms, shoulders, and neck. The collection featured two-in-one garments and press studs, yielding creative combinations like fleece shorts layered over checked boxer shorts. Trompe-l’œil effects extended to special prints, denim with sprayed color effects, lace prints on jersey dresses, and dresses offering glimpses of skeletal structures.
In the accessory department, Y/Project’s necklaces in the shape of pythons added a desirable touch. The collection promised to captivate fashion enthusiasts.
Ottolinger’s presentation was a burst of energy and ideas, featuring edgy silhouettes driven by movement. Founded by Cosima Gadient and Christa Bösch in 2015, Ottolinger has rapidly gained popularity in the fashion world. Their shows are among the most eagerly anticipated, and this one was no exception.
The Ottolinger woman’s wardrobe transitioned seamlessly from morning to night, maintaining coherence throughout. Loose-fitting garments, leggings, soft skirts, and cotton and linen knits dominated the morning looks. The collection then embraced a grunge-inspired lexicon, featuring denim outfits with textured velvet, khaki and beige canvas pieces, and gingham blouses with a burnt effect.
Mademoiselle adorned practical bodysuits, banker suits reimagined as mini-skirts, tops, and Bermuda shorts for her work attire. In the evening, the collection transformed into a bridal dream, featuring white ensembles, lace, embroidery, and crystals.
Atlein’s collection for the next summer oozed glamour, drawing inspiration from classic Hollywood cinema and vintage films. Draping, transparencies, and textured effects were central to the collection.
Ann Demeulemeester’s new artistic director, Stefano Gallici, presented a sophisticated collection that paid homage to the house’s heritage. The show featured streamlined silhouettes in black, white, and electric blue, with nods to neo-Romantic style. Transparencies, leather belts in various forms, and creative use of cotton sheets added depth to the collection.
These designers illuminated Paris Fashion Week with their creativity, offering a diverse range of styles and inspirations. The fashion world eagerly awaits what’s next on the horizon.
