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Paris Fashion Week Highlights: Victoria/Tomas, Dawei, Mame Kurogouchi, Anrealage

Rocio Lugo by Rocio Lugo
octubre 1, 2023
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Paris Fashion Week Highlights: Victoria/Tomas, Dawei, Mame Kurogouchi, Anrealage
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Paris Fashion Week took center stage on Tuesday, featuring a captivating lineup of runway shows that showcased a diverse range of styles, genres, and creative perspectives. Designers reimagined the essence of Parisian fashion, offering their unique interpretations of everyday women’s wear for Spring/Summer 2024. Notable presentations included Victoria/Tomas, Dawei, Mame Kurogouchi, and Anrealage.

Victoria/Tomas presented a collection that exuded maturity this season. The label’s iconic high-heeled lace-up booties were replaced with practical flat black leather boots, reflecting a more pragmatic approach. The impeccably tailored ensembles combined comfort and practicality with an underlying edginess and a hint of sensuality. Classic cotton blouses with oversized pockets were paired with miniskirts, while light grey sweaters featured frills for a touch of flair. Denim pieces were worn inside out to create unique textural and color effects.

Details played a significant role in this collection, with tassels and metallic elements such as stud buttons, eyelets, and thin chains adding allure to various garments. Vertical slits graced trousers and capes, while lateral openings added a playful twist to t-shirts and frilled skirts. The snake motif, symbolizing fertility, made appearances on embroidered skirts and jackets.

Dawei presented a collection marked by exuberance, bright colors, and generous volumes. Inspired by cloud shapes, the Chinese designer explored rounded, billowing forms, resulting in puffed poplin dresses, airy windbreakers, and parachute-like tunics. The color palette ranged from cloud-like pinks and azures to aquamarine, teal blue, turquoise, and pale yellow.

In the latter part of the collection, Dawei Sun shifted focus towards tailored cuts and classic colors. Grey trench coats were paired with swirling linen skirts, white blouses complemented trousers, and aquamarine wrap skirts made a statement. Flowing trouser suits were crafted from liangchou silk, a traditional Chinese fabric known for its crisp yet lightweight qualities.

Dawei closed the show with shimmering items made from lightweight silvery and golden foil, providing a touch of urban sophistication. The label, distributed through various multibrand retailers globally, including South Korea, China, the Middle East, Japan, and with a presence at Galeries Lafayette in Paris, showcased a collection that seamlessly blends everyday wear with an urban aesthetic.

Mame Kurogouchi created a unique immersive experience by hosting the runway show at the Ogata restaurant, a renowned temple of Japanese cuisine in Paris. Designer Maiko Kurogouchi drew inspiration from traditional Japanese craftsmanship, particularly ceramics dating back to the 18th century. The collection featured printed silk scarves and embossed motifs inspired by the patterns found on ancient tableware fragments.

Kurogouchi’s subtle color palette included shades of grey, mauve, cream, and sage green, paired with sleek silhouettes. Long taffeta coats, flared cotton dresses, and fitted silk tunics exemplified the collection’s sophistication. Models donned monochromatic outfits, adding an air of elegance with pumps or traditional Zori sandals and carrying transparent plastic handbags adorned with rich embroidery.

Anrealage presented a futuristic collection that transported viewers to the world of space travel. Japanese designer Kunihiko Moriniga showcased high-tech experiments in a spectacular presentation. Models with oversized glasses appeared on a darkened stage wearing basic white trousers and long-sleeved tops.

Transparent plastic elements were added to the ensembles, including undulating skirts, inflatable collars, waterproof jackets, dresses with plastic ribbons and ruffles, and oversized plastic jewelry. The runway featured a mesmerizing UV neon beam that illuminated the photosensitive garments, unveiling a myriad of colors and patterns.

The collection showcased an extensive palette of colors, including green, pink, yellow, blue, purple, and various patterns such as squares, stripes, checks, floral motifs, and the label’s logo as a monogram. The effect was stunning, revealing the intricate details of the garments and creating a futuristic and visually captivating experience.

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