Global zipper supplier YKK Corp recently detected PFAS, or per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances, in the paint used on some of its products, highlighting the persistent challenge companies face in removing these toxic chemicals from their products before imminent US bans take effect.
Tokyo-based YKK Corp disclosed the presence of PFAS on certain waterproof zippers and other products to its customers in the first half of the year, although this revelation is now being publicly reported for the first time. The company, a key supplier to major clothing brands, dedicated months to eradicating these chemicals—associated with cancer and health concerns—from its supply chain.
Chris Gleeson, Vice President of YKK’s Global Marketing Group, explained, «The paint containing PFAS came from multiple suppliers.» In response, the company consolidated its paint sources, successfully transitioning to PFAS-compliant paint by September.
For companies using YKK products, the news of PFAS in the paint posed challenges. Swedish outdoor apparel and gear brand Fjällräven, for instance, aimed to eliminate intentional PFAS use in all products by year-end but learned of YKK’s PFAS issue in May. Though YKK resolved the matter, it’s too late for Fjällräven to incorporate the new zippers into its spring and summer 2024 collection. Instead, these zippers will be used in next year’s fall and winter products.
The extent of the impact on various brands remains unclear, as YKK did not disclose its customer list. Several outdoor apparel brands employing YKK zippers either declined to comment on the issue or did not respond to inquiries.
VF Corp., the parent company of The North Face, confirmed that products manufactured for the fall 2024 season, including those with YKK trims, will not contain PFAS chemistries. Patagonia Inc. did not disclose whether its products were affected but emphasized ongoing efforts to eliminate PFAS from its supply chain. Other brands, including Eddie Bauer Inc., Columbia Sportswear Co., L.L.Bean Inc., and Lululemon Athletica Inc., did not provide responses regarding the presence of PFAS in their zippers.
The US is progressively implementing bans on PFAS in clothing and other products. California and New York have enacted laws banning most apparel containing these toxic chemicals starting in 2025, with Minnesota and Maine following suit with bans in the early 2030s. These bans will necessitate the removal of PFAS-containing products from store shelves and may result in penalties for violators.
To meet these deadlines, companies are conducting internal testing, revising their supply chains, and developing PFAS-free materials.
The fashion, defense, and packaging industries have traditionally relied on PFAS chemicals to enhance product resilience. However, the harmful effects of PFAS on human health and the environment have prompted a regulatory backlash. Studies have linked PFAS, particularly PFOA, to health conditions such as kidney cancer, testicular cancer, high cholesterol, thyroid disease, and pregnancy-induced hypertension.
The revelation of PFAS in unexpected places is expected to continue as regulations, particularly in California, restrict even trace levels of PFAS. The industry must collaborate to eliminate these harmful chemicals for the sake of consumer health and the environment.
