In the latest Paris Fashion Week, only a select few Chinese designers made it onto the official calendar, including Ruohan Nie, Rui Zhou, Uma Wang, Didu, and Dawei, among the 108 labels showcasing their Spring/Summer 2024 collections. Yet, this modest designer representation doesn’t capture the full extent of China’s influence in the heart of the French fashion capital.
While Chinese buyers were eagerly anticipated at Paris Fashion Week, the city also played host to a plethora of initiatives organized by Chinese delegations. China remains a pivotal market for luxury brands and global fashion players, and representatives from government delegations to regional and metropolitan authorities, as well as emerging labels, played central roles in numerous events across Paris.
One notable indicator of Chinese interest in the European market was the debut of Chic, a Chinese fashion show, in early September. Chic arrived with 20 premium labels, aiming to gauge demand from European multi-brand retailers. Beyond business transactions, this presence in Paris was a strategic move to bolster brand image, as noted by Frédéric Maus, managing director of WSN Développement, the show’s organizer.
Tranoï, the renowned trade show running from September 28 to October 1, joined hands with China Select, a division of the China Fashion Association responsible for international promotion. At Tranoï, six Chinese labels unveiled their ready-to-wear collections, signifying their interest in exploring the untapped potential of the European market and harnessing the prestige of Paris Fashion Week for domestic market benefits.
The allure of Paris Fashion Week, along with Milan Fashion Week, has made it a magnet for Chinese brands seeking international recognition. The Fashion Farm Foundation brought forth emerging Hong Kongese designers under the Hong Kong Fashion Force label. Wendy Yu, founder of the Yu Holdings group, organized an award ceremony for the Yu Prize, a platform dedicated to nurturing global growth for Chinese designers.
Inter-cultural exchange was a central theme of this movement, exemplified by Shanghai Fashion Week’s «Going Global» initiative, allowing former Yu Prize finalists to shine during Paris Fashion Week. This commitment to cultural exchange extended to the China Cultural Centre in Paris, which hosted a Sino-French fashion and culture festival.
This cultural promotion also carries political significance, as it highlights a commitment to propagate culture through creativity and foster cultural cooperation, as articulated by Liu Hongge, the director of the China Cultural Centre in Paris.
Following a period of lockdowns and health measures in China, fashion professionals are returning to Paris, aiming to gain visibility on both international and domestic fronts. Chinese designers, rooted in local traditions but globally informed, are positioning their creations for broader global appeal.
Boris Provost, managing director of the Tranoï trade show, emphasized the need for Chinese labels to consolidate their presence and visibility in fiercely competitive markets like Paris.
Guangzhou’s delegation provided a platform for emerging brands to gain international exposure. The city of Guangzhou, with its extensive fashion-related industry, logistics prowess, and robust R&D capabilities, aspires to become an international fashion capital.
This concerted push for international recognition by Chinese fashion industry players reflects their aspiration to expand beyond China’s borders. They are leveraging the allure of major European fashion events, such as Paris Fashion Week, to propel themselves onto the global stage.
In a competitive landscape, cities like Shanghai, Shenzhen, and Guangzhou are positioning themselves as potential future fashion capitals, with ambitions to host their own fashion weeks. These cities are actively striving to carve out significant roles in the global fashion arena.
