In a striking display of fashion and storytelling, Balenciaga’s creative director, Demna Gvasalia, presented a powerful show at the tomb of Napoleon, showcasing his talent for dressing not only models but also his friends and colleagues.
His ensemble of models included his husband, Loik Gomez, former teacher Linda Loppa, iconic mantilla maiden Diane Pernet, and Kering tastemaker Lionel Vermeil. The cast even featured his own mother, who shares a unique bond with Demna, having fled Georgia together when he was just 12 years old in the wake of the Russian invasion of their native land in 1993.
The show itself was a brilliant spectacle, set in a custom-made theater. Models paraded around the audience and along a catwalk framed by a towering ruby-red stage curtain.
For the spring/summer 2024 collection, Demna envisioned clients embracing his signature style. This included outlandishly oversized silhouettes, massive blazers crafted from artfully worn wools, floor-scraping cargo pants, and vibrant, primary-hued screen goddess-inspired cocktails and gowns.
“This collection is my most favorite and personal, as it reflects my own story,» said Demna. He explained that he wanted to transition from the «polished» collection he presented in the spring to something more raw and authentic, a true representation of himself and his work.
Many of the models carried passports and boarding cards from multiple nations, hinting at a nomadic and independent lifestyle. Some even clutched shoes in a conceptual gesture. The show itself was held in a mock theater, and the invitations were old books, embracing a deliberate departure from the digital world.
Demna emphasized, «It’s not about social media, likes, or catchy headlines in articles; it’s about creating clothing that deserves to be on a podium. What matters to me is making clothes.»
At the heart of this collection was deconstructed tailoring, featuring four-sleeve jackets, trench coats with extra appendages, spy-like coats, and nylon parkas. The show also featured ballooning biker jackets reminiscent of the one worn by Kim Kardashian at Victoria Beckham’s after party. The climax of the collection showcased conceptual screen goddess gowns that appeared to be crafted from liquid sequins.
The inspiration for this fashion statement stemmed from an unsettling incident in the spring. While dining in the south of France, people requested to change their tables away from Demna and his husband, expressing discomfort with their appearance. This experience deeply affected him, leading the couple to buy new clothes to blend in—a moment Demna described as «disgusting.» He even shared photos of himself in ordinary tourist attire, complete with shorts, a soft-collared shirt, and moccasins.
Reflecting on his life, Demna acknowledged that he has always been an individualist, often subjected to insults for looking unconventional. He emphasized that his fashion originates from within and aims to empower individuals. «Fashion is a powerful tool,» Demna insisted, clad in all-black attire resembling that of a trendy, globe-trotting monk.
The collection showcased technical complexity, exemplified by dramatic four-sleeve blazers in boiled navy wool with classical pinstripe detailing, as seen on the respected critic of The Cut, Cathy Horyn. Horyn, in good humor, quipped, «You can contact my agent if you want me for another show,» after her catwalk debut.
The complexity was further underscored by Isabelle Huppert, who read out instructions on how to construct a jacket. Accompanied by a dramatic orchestral fugue by BFRND, Huppert’s reading grew increasingly intense, reaching a climax at the end of the show.
