Men’s Fashion Week kicked off on Tuesday with shows by Egonlab, Taakk and Etudes. The three brands presented three interesting collections, giving a taste of what promises to be a very promising program until Sunday. For spring-summer 2023, the three brands have chosen three different locations in the capital, each expressing their vision of men’s fashion.
The Egonlab man looks good in thigh-high boots, perched on huge platforms, with a long white coat unbuttoned at the front and back, revealing leather pants and a transparent knitted fabric. For next summer, this dandy wants to be at the same time extravagant with sequined tops and saturated outfits, sometimes ochre-colored, over an electric blue top, sometimes emerald green with a fuchsia coat, and ultra cool with lace pants or ripped and faded jeans, enhanced by a skirt of the same material and a perfectly cut jacket.
On the bourgeois side, houndstooth suits and tasseled loafers, always associated with white socks, are countered with unusual or fun accessories: jewelry with large pearls, a leather belt worn around the neck or a large metal ring hung on a shoulder strap and carried as a purse, where you can hang a nice jacket. Not forgetting the elegant earring in the shape of a cigarette holder.
The silhouette is elongated with long and flared pants, in the style of the 70s, a strong piece of the collection. Some looks were exceptions, consisting of small leather suits and shorts worn with a white knit top revealing tattoos. Determined to get out of the «pandemic-crisis» tunnel, designers Kévin Nompeix and Florentin Glémarec invite this season a series of cartoon characters, from Bugs Bunny to Speedy Gonzales, happily reproduced on T-shirts and jacquard fabrics, in a healthy desire to return to childhood.
The pants are long and loose and the colors are vibrant, but in a completely different way. Here the focus is on the garment rather than the look. At first glance, the collection seems very classic, but on closer inspection, it turns out to be very modern with an incredible investigation of materials and textures, generating unexpected hybrids.
Stripped of part of its lining, a satin jacket is transformed into an almost transparent shirt with a subtle color degradation, while another is completely transformed by a change of fabric and, therefore, of weight. A classic double-breasted linen jacket with a rigid effect is transformed at the sides and sleeves into a light cotton striped shirt.
Takuya Moriyama, who worked at Issey Miyake before launching his brand in 2013, seems to transform the material like a magician and dazzles with a thousand other innovative details and treatments. Starting with jeans, whose unpicked parts are actually jacquard woven in a gray yarn, or brightly colored shorts and shirts, skillfully frayed, offering a plush effect.
Closing this first day, Etudes Studio presents itself as the antithesis of the two previous collections with a minimalist wardrobe composed of basic pieces inspired by the world of work. At the helm of the brand, Aurélien Arbet, Jérémie Égry and José Lamali open a new chapter with Summer 2023, marked by a new diamond-shaped logo.
For this, the trio invited their audience to the Porte de la Villette, on a section of the «Petite ceinture,» the 33-km circle of railroad tracks surrounding Paris. Most of the looks were monochromatic (linen suits, shorts, ripped jeans, canvas suits, coats). The first ones were all light colors like the new blank page that remains to be written.