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Paris Fashion Week Highlights: Courrèges and Rahul Mishra Shine

Rocio Lugo by Rocio Lugo
septiembre 28, 2023
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Paris Fashion Week’s third day witnessed two remarkable showcases that left a lasting impression. Courrèges, known for its minimalist design, presented a collection of coveted and wearable pieces, while Rahul Mishra introduced his revamped ready-to-wear line, embracing artisanal craftsmanship and accessibility.

Courrèges appeared to embrace a theme of «Duel in the Sun» for this season’s show, evident in its decor. The runway was set against a vast square of dry white sand at the end of a dimly lit corridor, creating an ambiance reminiscent of a distant desert or lunar landscape. As anticipation built, the room resonated with the sound of a strong wind, setting the stage for models donning asymmetrical white dresses, their every step kicking up clouds of dust.

Creative director Nicolas Di Felice, since his debut in March 2021, has consistently enriched Courrèges’ DNA. His approach combines the house’s codes with a fresh, contemporary language, marked by clean, graphic cuts and geometric lines. Silhouettes remained ultra-short, with occasional long dresses and coats. The color palette remained minimalist, oscillating between black, shades of white, and earth tones. This season, the iconic trapeze shape made way for mini wrap skirts and small coats with rounded edges. Dresses featured high left thigh slits and exposed right shoulders, while jackets adopted a dropped right shoulder, emphasizing asymmetry.

Shirts underwent reinterpretation, with some shirt-neck dresses showcasing deep V-necklines. Blousons, skirts, fitted tops, short coats, and bell-bottoms formed the core of this bold yet practical collection. Hints of futuristic style, reminiscent of founder André Courrèges, emerged in accessories like transparent plastic and metallic silver bras, as well as curved heels on shoes.

True to Courrèges tradition, leather, crocodile-effect, and vinyl pieces made an appearance, including those with full-length side slits secured by buckled straps, akin to fringed cowboy pants. Thigh-high boots dominated the runway.

Rahul Mishra chose Paris as the backdrop for the launch of his new ready-to-wear line, ‘Afew.’ Previously paused in 2020 due to the pandemic, this project champions sustainability, Indian craftsmanship, and inclusivity. «Afew» stands for «Air, Fire, Earth, Water,» representing the four natural elements comprising our planet.

Mishra’s sustainable approach retains the artisans who have long collaborated on his haute couture creations. He describes «Afew» as easy-to-wear and affordable, with no size or gender restrictions. The line caters to both women and men, offering everyday basics, eveningwear, and party attire. Signature elements like embroidery, appliqués, rhinestones, gathers, and ruffles adorn many garments.

With a pricing range from 350 to 2,500 euros, Mishra aims to redefine ready-to-wear with sourced materials and artisanal treatments. Plans include distributing «Afew» through an international multi-brand network and dedicated boutiques.

In 2022, the brand partnered with India’s leading fashion and luxury retailer, securing a 40% stake. «Afew» will soon open its first single-brand boutique at Mumbai’s Jio World Plaza, a luxury shopping destination under Reliance’s ownership.

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